West of Taurito, a couple of kilometres of rugged coastline recall what this whole southern stretch of the island must have been like 50 years ago, before mass tourism descended on the Canaries.
Finally you round a bend; below you is a tempting crescent of sandy beach and, next to it, a busy little yacht harbour and fishing port. Puerto de Mogán, although now largely given over to the tourist trade, is light years from its garish counterparts to the east. Thankfully, even the recent construction inland is more aesthetically pleasing than in other resorts along this coast.
Although its nickname ‘Venice of the Canaries’ may be a tad exaggerated, the architecture and bridged waterways are as pretty as a chocolate box, and the whole place exudes an air of opulence and charm. In the heart of the port, low-rise apartments have wrought-iron balconies, brightly coloured trim and are covered in dazzling bougainvillea.
On the downside, the place gets packed with envious tourists from the other resorts during the day, particularly on Friday morning when a street market takes over part of the town. Stalls sell the usual overpriced belts, bags and shell jewellery; if you are staying here, it’s a good day to leave.