It’s Cala Gonone’s very inaccessibility that forms a good part of its appeal. Not so long ago you could only reach this insulated Golfo di Orosei resort on Sardinia’s cliff-sided eastern coast from the sea, but things have moved on and nowadays there’s a neat road tunnel bored through the wall of mountains that separate it from the rest of the island. Once emerged from the tunnel, travellers are confronted by a steep plunge to the coast, and the spectacle of undeveloped coastline stretching out of sight to north and south.